While there are many pieces of climbing equipment necessary for successful climbs, few things put climbers at ease quicker than a quality quickdraw. Using these correctly allows for more fluid climbing and an increased sense of safety. However, with so many different quickdraws available it can be difficult figuring which one to get. But don’t worry. This guide will help you narrow down your choices and find the best quickdraw for your climbing style.
To complete your climbing gear kit, make sure to also check out our articles on the best climbing helmets, ropes, shoes, and harnesses.
Quick Answer: Best Climbing Quickdraws
Below is a list of the best rock climbing quickdraws:
- Petzl Spirit Express
- Black Diamond FreeWire
- Petzl Ange Finesse
- Edelrid Nineteen G
- DMM Alpha VW Sport
- Mad Rock Super Light
- Black Diamond Positron
- Petzl Djinn Axess
- Edelrid Bulletproof
- Metolius Bravo Keylock
What to Look for in a Good Climbing Quickdraw
Because there are so many different aspects that go into purchasing a quickdraw, we figured it would be helpful to list them here so you have a good idea of what to look for before you hit the buy button.
1. Type of Quickdraw
The type of climbing you do will have a big impact on the type of quickdraw that will work best for you.
a. All-round
These quickdraws are the happy medium between alpine and sport. They usually fall in the mid-weight and mid-length range and work for all-around handling.
b. Alpine / Traditional
These quickdraws will be more lightweight. They’re likely wire gate because they’re light and less likely to gather ice.
c. Sport
These quickdraws tend to be larger and beefier, and they make clipping and grabbing easier and more efficient.
2. Carabiner Gates
Gates on carabiners come in all shapes and sizes. Some will work better for you than others depending on your climbing style.
a. Straight-gate vs. Bent-gate
Just like the name says, straight-gates are straight from the end to the pivot point. These are very simple to use because of the solid, straight gates. These tend to be less expensive, but they’re not as easy to clip.
Bent-gates make clipping a rope very simple so they’re only on the rope ends of quickdraws. Whatever you’re clipping the quickdraw to (rope, bolt hanger, harness, etc.), a bent-gate acts as a guide to that item.
b. Wiregate vs. Solid Gate
This is how carabiners latch when the gate closes.
Solid gate carabiners are ideal for sport climbing because many of them have the keylock feature so there’s no notch for your rope to get caught on. They’re also usually heavier and less expensive.
Wiregate carabiners are lighter and less prone to gate flutter, but because of the notch on the nose it is possible for ropes to get caught when you’re unclipping. These are also a better choice for winter climbing because they’re better at shedding ice and snow.
3. Keylocking Carabiners
These have a smooth notch where the nose and gate interact. It holds the gate close to the nose, which is a major safety feature because a closed carabiner can retain about three times the strength of an open one. It also prevents the carabiner from getting snagged on your gear loop or other slings. It will cost a little more, but it’s worth the investment.
4. Quantity
The length and location of your climb will determine how many quickdraws you’ll need. Having 12 is okay for most sport routes. If the route is around 35 meters then 18 is a good number. Any major distance further than that you’ll want to consider having 24. It can never hurt to have some extra quickdraws though.
5. Size
You may think that smaller is better, but size will compromise convenience. Especially if you have larger hands or will be wearing gloves, you may want to sacrifice some ounces for better functionality.
6. Sling Length
This is mainly based on personal preference and what is most comfortable for you. If the route is pretty straight then you should be fine with a shorter sling, around 10 centimeters long. For steep overhangs, non-linear paths, and routes longer than 12 quickdraws, a sling around 20 centimeters will likely suite you better because it will reduce rope drag.
7. Weight
Another personal preference based on your climbing style. Most climbers don’t want anything unnecessary weighing them down, and a quickdraw is no different. Some are lighter and some are heavier, and each serve their own purpose. Be sure not to sacrifice functionality for weight. The last thing you want to do is buy a carabiner that makes you waste precious time trying to clip it.
Best Rock Climbing Quickdraw Reviews
Now that you know the major things to consider, here are some of the best quickdraws on the market:
Petzl Spirit Express
Best use: Sport climbing
Weight: 93-100g
Length(s): 12, 17cm
Gate opening: 21mm (straight), 25mm (bent)
This ergonomic quickdraw is ideal for sport climbs and working a route. The textured straight gate with keylock allows it to be gripped easily and for clipping and unclipping to be a breeze. It has an H-shaped cross section which offers a great strength-to-weight ratio. The Petzl Spirit Express is made with wide contact surfaces to reduce the wear on the carabiner and enhance rope glide. The attachment loop is also protected from wear thanks to the sling protector. Weighing in at just over three ounces, the Petzl Spirit Express is always among the most loved quickdraws.
Black Diamond FreeWire
Best uses: Sport, trad climbing
Weight: 100-103g
Length(s): 12, 18cm
Gate opening: 25mm
The Black Diamond FreeWires are the best quickdraws for sport climbers on a budget. It’s a cold-forged 12-centimeter quickdraw with full wiregate performance and a no-frills construction. The dual wiregate carabiners won’t freeze up and they also eliminate gate flutter. The Rubber Straitjacket™ insert in the dog bone keeps the bottom wiregate carabiner in correct orientation to make clipping easier and more efficient. This is a light, all-purpose quickdraw that’s not only great for sport climbers, but also for alpine climbs because of the two wiregate HotWire biners and durable 18-millimeter polyester dog bone. For a high quality, affordable, and high visibility quickdraw, go with the Black Diamond FreeWire.
Petzl Ange Finesse
Best uses: Trad, alpine, sport climbing
Weight: 63-78g
Length(s): 10, 17cm
Gate opening: 23mm (S), 26mm (L)
In situations where every ounce counts, the Petzl Ange Finesse is the quickdraw you want to have. Available in two length options, 10 and 17 centimeters, the smallest weighs 2.2 ounces and the larger weighs only 2.5 ounces. This quickdraw is designed for alpine climbing and to cruise up sport climbs. It features the MonoFil Keylock technology and an H-shaped cross-section while offering an optimal strength-to-weight ratio. The deflector works with the shape of the carabiner to help with clipping and promote the proper carabiner positioning. Its lightweight webbing keeps weight off your harness as you climb and its wider areas can prevent rope wear. You’ll be climbing with no hesitation when you choose the Petzl Ange Finesse.
Edelrid Nineteen G
Best uses: Alpine, trad climbing
Weight: 45g
Length(s): 10cm
Gate opening: 17mm
The Edelrid Nineteen G is an absolute winner for gram-counting alpinists and climbers. Weighing only 0.68 ounces, it still has a 22kN strength rating. It’s made of an ultralight, ultrastrong aluminum alloy and it has a lightweight wire gate which reduces the whiplash effect on the gate in the event of a fall. Maybe not the best for sport climbing, it’s still practical for a variety of things like individually racking cams, lengthy multi-pitch routes, and ice climbing. Keep in mind that this isn’t a carabiner for everyone, as they’re geared more towards the top 1-2% of ambitious climbers. However, when it comes to rock climbing quickdraws, you can’t beat the weight of the Edelrid Nineteen G.
DMM Alpha VW Sport
Best use: Sport climbing
Weight: 102-108g
Length(s): 12, 18, 25cm
Gate opening: 25mm (straight), 22mm (bent)
The DMM Alpha VW Sport has been created to withstand the test of time while you work out the sequences on sport routes. The I-beam construction makes the carabiners lightweight and strong and the design on the straight-gate is built to take the abuse of being clipped to steel bolt hangers. The injection-molded keeper on the quickdraw allows the bent-gate carabiner to be easy to clip and correctly aligned while ensuring the webbing is protected from abrasion. Their grippy texture and shape mean you don’t have to worry about them being difficult to handle. The clean nose profile allows for simple cleaning, easy clipping, and reduced snagging. The 12-centimeter option weighs 3.6 ounces while the 18-centimeter option weighs 3.8 grams. The two durable carabiners and stout nylon sling are only part of what make the DMM Alpha VW Sport one of the best climbing quickdraws.
Mad Rock Super Light
Best uses: Trad, alpine, sport climbing
Weight: 80g
Length(s): 10cm
Gate opening: 21mm (straight), 23mm (bent)
If you’re looking for a keylock but also want to be weight-conscious, then the Mad Rock Super Light is a highlight on this list of the best quickdraws for sport climbing. Weighing 2.5 ounces, this carabiner utilizes a forged I-beam construction to keep it lightweight without sacrificing strength or size. It has both straight and bent ultralight wire gate carabiners which are linked by a 10cm-long Dyneema dogbone runner. The lower, bent gate carabiner makes clipping your rope fast and smooth while the upper, straight gate clips into protection. In order to make sure the bent gate carabiner stays in the correct orientation for simple clipping, the runner features a practical rubber insert. The Mad Rock Super Light quickdraws are an ideal option when you want to cut weight but not quality.
Black Diamond Positron
Best uses: Sport, trad climbing
Weight: 107-110g
Length(s): 12, 16cm
Gate opening: 22mm (straight), 26mm (bent)
With two Positron carabiners and a polyester dog bone, this quickdraw is a great option for multi-discipline, full keylock functionality. With the straight gate on the top and the bent gate on the bottom, clipping and cleaning are easy thanks to the dual keylocks. Whether you’re attacking sport routes or extending gear placements, the design of the Black Diamond Positron eliminates snagging. It even has a Rubber Straightjacket™ insert in the runner loop which keeps the bent gate carabiner in proper orientation for easier and more efficient clipping. Offering super high speed and low drag, this carabiner is an ideal option for almost everywhere from the gym to your favorite crag.
Petzl Djinn Axess
Best use: Sport climbing
Weight: 107-113g
Length(s): 12, 17cm
Gate opening: 24mm
If you’re excited to be introduced to outdoor climbing, then the Petzl Djinn Axess is a quickdraw you’ll want to have. This 3.5-ounce carabiner has a durable Axess polyester sling and two Djinn carabiners with keylock noses for quick clipping. The H-shaped profiles allow for an optimal strength-to-weight ratio and the wide rope-bearing surfaces promote rope glide and reduce wear. Even while you’re lead climbing, clipping the rope is easy thanks to the bent gate on the bottom carabiner. Providing almost unmatched reliability and durability, you’ll thank yourself for choosing the Petzl Djinn Axess the next time you go rock climbing.
Edelrid Bulletproof
Best use: Sport climbing
Weight: 118-124g
Length(s): 12, 18cm
Gate opening: 20mm
Fully living up to its name, this is a bulletproof, robust hybrid quickdraw that is a great companion when sport climbing. Its H-shape construction makes sure it has the best possible use of materials while still maintaining a minimal weight. The Edelrid Bulletproof Quickdraw has one bullet carabiner and one bulletproof carabiner with keylock closure to ensure optimal handling when clipping and unclipping, and the anti-twist fixing holds the lower carabiner in place. Because they decrease rope wear, they’re super helpful in increasing the lifespan of your quickdraw rack. They always come highly recommended, so you’re sure to be satisfied with the Edelrid Bulletproof Quickdraw.
Metolius Bravo Keylock
Best uses: Alpine, trad, sport climbing
Weight: 88g
Length(s): 15, 24cm
Gate opening: 17mm (keylock), 20mm (wiregate)
The Metolius Bravo Keylock helps you focus on the crux while you forget about weighty harnesses during your climbs. The 3.1-ounce quickdraw has a 22kN strength rating and you’ll be more than happy when it helps your belayer catch you after a fall. It has a skinny dogbone that will stabilize the rope-clipping carabiner so you don’t blow the clip before a fall. It features a Bravo keylock top carabiner with a wiregate bottom carabiner, and the sling is made from a double-layered 14 millimeter Monster webbing which allows for optimal durability and makes it easy to grab. Metolius is a company truly passionate about rock climbing, so you can climb in safety and confidence when you add the Metolius Bravo Keylock to your travel gear collection.
It can never hurt to have some extra quickdraws when you’re climbing. The amount on the market is only going to increase as companies are beginning to create more specific and specialized ones, and it’s important not to get caught with anything cheap or low-quality.
Thankfully, quality quickdraws don’t cost a fortune and some can even be used for different types of climbing. Though they’re small, any of these quickdraws will add an extra layer of confidence to your climbing.
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